Amish Dining Rooms

With a little tender loving care, your beautiful hardwood furniture can last a lifetime and beyond.

HUMIDITY:

• Changes in humidity are wood's No. 1 enemy.
• Try to keep your home's temperature to 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Relative humidity should be 50 percent to 55 percent. Specific levels, however, are not as important as avoiding radical swings in the temperature and the amount of moisture in the air.

STORAGE TIPS:

• If you have to store your furniture do so in an unheated environment. Air can hold more moisture at a high temperature than at a low one.
• Wood can best handle temperature changes and relative humidity if they occur gradually. Abrupt changes (closing or opening a vacation home, for example) can stress your furniture.
• Use dehumidifiers during wet, rainy times and in damp rooms to remove excess moisture from the air.

DUSTING:

• Dust Frequently
• DO NOT USE A FEATHER DUSTER! All it does is move dust around, it cannot be cleaned and it may scratch the surface.
• Try to avoid using water to clean, water can cause damage to the wood and finish, always use coasters to protect against water rings
• Best Way to Dust
• Use a clean washable cloth made of soft, lint-free cotton (old t-shirts, cloth diapers, dish towels, chamois)
• Cloth needs to be free of snaps, buttons, zippers or anything that could scratch the surface
• Do not dust with a dry cloth. Many experts believe that dusting with a dry cloth is abrasive and will ultimately dull the finish. A dry cloth will not really remove dust, they say.
• Sprinkle just a few drops of water onto the cloth, with just enough moisture to get the dust to stick to the cloth. If there is any trace of moisture on the wood after wiping your cloth is too wet.
• You might want to use a spray-on dusting aid or polish. If so, consider whether you want to apply silicone oil to your finishes. This type of oil is used in most commercial furniture sprays and polishes. To find out if your product contains silicone oil, consult the label or call the manufacturer.
• Dust with the grain of the wood. Wipe off dust using gentle, oval motions along the grain of the wood. Turn or fold the cloth as soon as dirt is visible on any section. Keep a pile of clean cloths handy so you don't move dust and dirt from one spot to another. Lift, don't slide, lamps and objects to dust under and around them. Avoid soiling adjoining upholstery. Launder soiled dusting cloths immediately.

Choosing your Wood Care Products

When you clean your furniture you are actually cleaning the finish, not the wood. To prolong the lift of a finish proper care is needed. This will make the surface of furniture slippery so objects will glide over the top without scratching.

Wood furniture is no longer alive, so it does not need to breathe. So there is no need to worry about clogging the pores with wax. Changes in humidity, not a lack of oil will cause it to crack.

PASTE WAX has been used for centuries as a finishing material and a furniture care product. If used properly, paste wax will provide a thick, hard, lasting finish. Liquid wax is similar, but typically provides a thinner coating. Waxes dry hard so they do not smear and attract dust and dirt. Paste wax typically lasts six months to a couple years, depending on how much the furniture is used and how many coats are applied. Paste wax will help delay the formation of water rings, giving you a little extra time to wipe up the moisture. Some people, especially antique lovers, prefer the soft sheen provided by waxes. Wax will not interfere with future refinishing.

Make sure you buy a wax designed especially for wood furniture. Waxes for cars, shoes or other finishes might harm furniture.

OILY CLEANERS and polishes will not provide a lasting, hard coat. Those containing silicone oil will create a nice shine and a slippery surface, but they can interfere with refinishing. This type of oil can seep through cracks in the finish into the wood. That can ruin the new finish later. Be aware that labels often fail to say whether products contain silicone oil. Follow the manufacturers' instructions when using spray or liquid polishes.

If you have waxed your furniture and want to switch to an oil-based polish or vice-versa, first clean the furniture with mineral spirits or a solvent-based wax remover. Do this in a spot with plenty of ventilation away from any heat source or sparks. First test the product you are using in an inconspicuous spot. When the piece is clean and dry, wax or polish. If you accidentally mix wax and oil, the finish will turn cloudy. In that case, wipe the finish off and clean it with mineral spirits or a solvent-based wax remover. Wax or polish when the finish is dry.

CLEAN BRASS HARDWARE with caution. If the brass hardware on your furniture has a protective lacquer coating, it probably will not tarnish and will only need to be dusted. If the brass is tarnishing and you want to polish it, either remove the brass or slide a piece of mylar plastic behind the hardware so that the brass cleaner does not touch the finish.

Watch the Humidity

Furniture ages more quickly if stored in a basement, attic, garage or warehouse. Place furniture away from all heat sources, if possible. If you must put furniture near an air duct, use a shield or guard plate to direct heat away.

Avoid placing furniture in front of radiators, heat runs or fireplaces. Store table leaves as close as possible to the table so they adjust to the same humidity conditions. (If there is no room in the dining area, slide into pillow cases and store under beds)

Avoid Direct Sunlight

The ultraviolet rays of the sun will damage a finish and bleach the wood underneath. Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause the finish to crack, sometimes in a pattern resembling the skin of an alligator. Tablecloths and doilies slow down the process, but they don't stop it. Try to keep furniture out of direct sunlight. When that's not possible, reduce the amount of light streaming on any piece of furniture. Consider planting shrubs in front of windows to block direct sunlight. Use window shades, drapes or blinds to block light during the time of day the furniture is exposed. Consider using UV screening films or tinting windows and skylights.

Uniformly expose surfaces to light. Especially avoid letting the sun hit only part of a surface. Occasionally move lamps, doilies and other objects so the wood bleaches uniformly. Consider covering furniture with sheets or blankets if you leave your home for part of the year. Consider moving furniture around periodically so that the same piece does not absorb light all the time. Remember that some bleaching can be desirable. Antique collectors actually look for the rich, soft tones that slight fading can bring.

Avoid Chemical Exposure

Keep solvents such as nail polish remover, alcohol and paint thinner away from wood furniture because they can harm the finish. Alcohol is contained in colognes, perfumes and medications as well as in wine, beer and liquor. Fingerprints, perspiration and body oils can harm a finish over time, especially on chairs. Plants and flower nectar that touch the finish can also cause permanent stains.

Placing hot items on furniture can cause a chemical change in the finish that result in white rings or spots.

Keep Plastic Off Wood

Do not leave plastic objects lying on wood surfaces. Color from plastic tablecloths, appliance covers, wrappers, place mats and toys can leach into wood over time. Plastic can also stick to a finish, damaging it when it is pulled up.

Guard Against Scratches

Lift, don't slide, objects on wood. Place objects on trivets, tablecloths, doilies or others covers to protect the finish. Use felt bottoms on lamps and other decorative objects. Avoid brightly colored felt because its color could leach into the wood. Some experts say brown is the best color choice.

Carefully Move Furniture

Lift heavy furniture with the help of at least two people. Sliding pieces could hurt the wood floor and damage furniture legs by applying too much sideways pressure. If a drawer has two handles, use both to open it. Don't stuff drawers with too many items.

Taken from Charles Sutton Sutton's book, "How to Care for Your Old and New Wood Furniture," which is sold by The Furniture Library, a research center in High Point, N.C. , at www.furniturelibrary.com.